Romanced by The Rock: The People & Places That Stole Our Hearts in Newfoundland & Labrador

We were camping in Baja with a handful of other well-traveled RVers, watching a gorgeous sunset over the sea and mountains, but the conversation wasn’t about Mexico. “Imagine this cove but filled with icebergs glistening and puffins swooping down from the cliffs while sipping rum to a jig. That’s Newfoundland and Labrador.” He painted a picture of this unique island in the North Atlantic of incredible beauty that few tourists ever find. “You guys have been honeymooning in 70 countries across the globe,” he said, “but Newfoundland and Labrador is its own special world.” This conversation always stuck with us, and even though our plans to cross the border were foiled in 2020 and 2021, we weren’t giving up on “The Rock.” This summer, we finally ferried our camper across the Gulf of Saint Lawrence to explore the wonders of Newfoundland and Labrador, for a road trip that was so worth the wait.

As The World’s Longest Honeymooners (est. 2012), our quest is for experiences that make our heart skip a beat. Forget couple's massages and rose petals on the bed, we’re talking about moments that bring us closer to our surroundings, local people, and each other, with an element of surprise and delight. Be it catching your honey at the end of a zipline or learning to cook indigenous recipes, moments like this came to us again and again in Newfoundland and Labrador. Here are the experiences that stole our hearts.

Photo Safari: Town Names That Make You Blush

With town names like Virgin Cove, Leading Tickles, Bareneed, Cupids, and Chance Cove… Newfoundland and Labrador’s earliest settlers must have been quite the romantics! Charmed and intrigued, we scoured the map for the densest lineup of these lovey-dovey towns and Conception Bay Highway had enough for its own road trip! We went on a silly selfie spree where we hopped out at Cupids for a kiss on the cheek, made hand-hearts at Heart’s Content, swooned into Mike’s arms at Heart’s Desire, and at Dildo…oh, get your head out of the gutter! We went to the local brewery for a pair of Lassie Brown Ales and a cheers to hopeless romantics.

Glamping & Kayaking The “Venice of Newfoundland”

The colorful houses perched on the rocky shore of Bonavista Bay are connected to their neighbors by bridges and waterways. With so many sea canals (aka “tickles,” how cute is that?!) and irresistible charm, this area of New-Wes Valley is fondly called the Venice of Newfoundland and begs to be kayaked. We joined a local kayak guide who grew up in the area and knows the tickles' like the back of his hand. We paddled past the 19th-century buildings of the Barbour Living Heritage Village, working docks stacked high with lobster traps, and out to the islands of Bennett’s and Pinchard’s. Families homesteaded these outlying isles, and when asked to consolidate to Newtown in the 1850s, they didn’t give up their houses but instead floated them to the mainland. We paddled the shallow waters, so clear we could study the angel wing clam beds and fish beneath us. After our two-hour kayak, it was time for some R&R at the local glamping camp. Set on a little lake, our well-appointed safari tent with a fluffy bed, Adirondack chairs, and grill gave us everything we needed for a perfect night that flowed from sundowners to stargazing.

Dancing the Night Away in Old St. John’s

One of the oldest towns in North America is also one of the liveliest on a summer night. We walked Water Street, a hub of Newfoundland and Labrador business and pleasure for the last 500 years, and admired the charming storefronts and droves of outdoor cafes twinkling with lights. We rounded the corner to George Street and music poured out of the pubs. Forget Billboard Charts and cover bands, they were playing live, traditional Newfoundland music. The band that night was called KitchinParti, a play on the name of the age-old Newfoundlander and Labrador house gatherings of friends and a few instruments on the kitchen dance floor. The leading lady was jamming on the “whistle” as we’d never seen the flute played before, doing a mix of Irish/Newfoundland classics and clever originals. When they played “Tame the Daughters of Newfoundland,” the bachelorette party went wild and pulled me into the dance circle. Mike’s not a big fan of dancing, but when the hens let me go, he couldn’t help but give me a twirl.

Farm & Forage Experience, Upper Humber Settlement

Farm-to-table dinners have become commonplace, but for something far cooler, we went foraging for the ingredients and cooked them with an indigenous chef! Lauralee, a member of the Qalipu band, guided us around her six acres of land. We started by picking snap peas, strawberries, and beet greens in her garden, then she taught us to look beyond the rows of cultivated crops and discover the edible and medicinal world that’s all around us. Under our feet was a carpet of young plantain, chickweed, lamb’s quarter, clover, sage flower, and alder to spice up the freshest and most fulfilling salad we’ve ever had.

Sunset Picnic at Captain Cook’s Trail’s End

As world travelers and explorers, we have a fascination with Captain Cook. We have traced his steps in New Zealand, Tahiti, Hawaii, and Antarctica, so when we realized he got his cartography chops in Newfoundland and Labrador, we had to make it to Captain Cook’s Trail’s End. Setting off from Corner Brook, we hugged the shoreline for 45 km until we hit the stunning Bottle Cove. We hiked the two-kilometer trail, set our hand on Cook’s Monument, and knew he would have wanted us to keep exploring. We climbed to the top of Sunset Rock, just as the sky turned pink, and the vista point revealed more beach coves, islands, and rugged sea cliffs worthy of a toast to Cook!

French Weekend Getaway in Saint Pierre and Miquelon

Did you know there is a part of France that’s only 15 miles from Canada? You can find true patisseries, rare Bordeaux wines, and petanque in the park—but you'll need to go through EU immigration to get in on it. Count us in! We hopped aboard the sleek ferry from Fortune and were transported to a 16th-century harbor with fishing boats flying the French flag and colorful Baroque architecture. We checked into Les Terrasses du Port, Saint Pierre's new spa hotel. Wasting no time, we dropped our bags and went into the hammam, soaked in the counter-current pool, and basked in the glow of the Himalayan salt walls. Fully refreshed, we went to dinner at a plant-forward and locally sourced restaurant using fresh ingredients from the nearby hydroponic farm, fishermen at the docks, and brewers from their sister island of Miquelon. While the restaurant regularly hosts live music, the day’s buzz about town was a pop-up concert set in a fishing-shed-turned music venue. The place was packed and full of good vibes. Alongside the locals, we sang and danced to a mixture of French, American, and Latin rock into the night. We needed a souvenir to commemorate this magical place, but the average gift shop wouldn’t do. We signed up for a textile workshop at a marine leatherworking and eco-friendly design studio. The owner Erika taught us how to lay out, cut, sew, and seal cork into the most beautiful change purse. It’s where we are saving our euros for a return visit.

Secret Beach Picnic, Twillingate

We followed our GPS to an undisclosed location for dinner, crafted by a Twillingate caterer. A dirt road wound down the hillside to a gorgeous beach. Walking a half-kilometer along the sandy spine, between two beach coves, we spotted our pop-up restaurant for two. A campfire ready to be lit, a picnic basket full to the brim with pre-prepped ingredients, a blanket laid out, and a bucket with champagne on ice were all waiting for us. We grilled stuffed peppers over the fire, as we nibbled on an assortment of fresh salads and dips, and watched the waves lap onto our beach. After a delicious meal, we climbed to the peak for sunset and spotted a massive iceberg and a pair of whales in the distance for the cherry on top of an unforgettable dining experience.

Adrenaline Rush on the Exploits River

Moving away from the coast, the water doesn’t disappear, it just takes a new shape. Countless kettle ponds nestle between the hills and the Exploits River flows for 246 kilometers through the province. At Grand Falls-Windsor, the longest river in Newfoundland squeezes through a canyon and around pinnacles to make class four rapids and a thrill-seeker’s delight. Mike and I are serial adventurers, so the invite to zipline and river raft on the same day was an RSVP of “Heck yeah!”. The local zipline company has six lines (some 1,200 feet long!) zigzagging across the river. We followed the lead guide/owner Chad, and he seemed as excited as we were, leaping off the platform in Superman formations and showing us how to fly upside down. We took his advice, tucked our knees to our chest, and watched the rapids swirl below us. Squealing and giggling, I flipped back up for my platform landing and Mike caught me with a bear hug. Our Exploits River adventures continued with a sunset river rafting trip paddle and island cookout. There were just enough rapids to pump us up and help wind us down from our total adrenaline high.

Hospitality of the Granite Coast

Driving Newfoundland’s southwest shore, past Port aux-Basques, the coastline is a different type of rugged. It is lush green with waterfalls and cliffs of solid granite. We went to the very end of the road, aka “The Neck,” where the land narrows and drops off into the sea at Rose Blanche Lighthouse and the Lightkeeper’s Inn & B&B. We checked into this little hotel, the area’s last remaining soapbox-style fisherman’s cottage. The innkeeper shared colorful stories from the hearty families that lived here and gave travel tips for our day ahead. At dawn we walked to Rose Blanche’s claim to fame–the only granite lighthouse in Atlantic Canada. Fog swirled around it, giving little glimpses of its hand-hewn construction. From there we took the old fisherman’s path towards town, admiring the dramatic cliffs and coves with the odd fishing boat. We saw a sign that said “Shed Pottery” with an arrow, and we followed it to the artist's studio and home of Jane and John Wright. “Morning! Can I offer you a cappuccino?” In the age of $8 coffees, we were slightly puzzled by this out-of-the-blue offering. “Oh, and I just made cookies if you’d like one for dipping.” Yes, please. While Jane frothed the oat milk, John offered to show us around his pottery workshop. He had been an art teacher in British Columbia for decades, but always found great inspiration from The Granite Coast. The couple has since made Rose Blanche their summer home and opened their shed to aspiring potters for lessons. We can’t wait to come back and reconnect with them at the wheel.

Mi’kmaq Smudging Ceremony in Gros Morne

Gros Morne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its geological significance, draws people the world over to literally walk on the Earth’s mantle (FYI that’s usually about 20 miles below the surface). But it was the people who have always been here that moved us the most. Through the Parks Canada Indigenous Programs, we joined a Mi’kmaq First Nations leader for storytelling and our first smudging. Gathered together with 20 other travelers in the cozy Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, we watched her prepare the medicinal herbs, tinder, and more tools for the ceremony. “We use the smoke of sacred medicines to purify ourselves and to honor and acknowledge the universe around us,” she said as she lit the sage. “The smoke attaches itself to the things within us that are negative, and it will carry them away…if we allow it.” Following her lead, we cupped the smoke in our hands and brought it to each of our senses…nose, eyes, ears, mouth, and finally the heart. I don’t think anyone knew how emotional this park program would be, but her warm energy had people sharing personal stories of reconciliation and hopes for a more compassionate world. With a quick lesson in Mi’kmaq musical instruments, the evening ended with a song and gift-giving. We still have the shell she gave us on our dashboard as a good omen.

Expedition 51°: Road Tripping the New Trans-Labrador Highway

Labrador makes up 71% of the landmass of NL, but just 5% of the province’s population. Few travelers make it here, but we knew “The Big Land” was rich with boreal forest, icebergs, massive waterfalls, 9,000 years of human history, vibrant Indigenous communities…and a brand new road! It’s taken 20 years to build the Trans-Labrador Highway, but Labrador’s remote communities are finally connected by a 1,200-kilometer, silky-smooth road. As lovely as it is, Expedition 51° is not for the faint of heart, with hundreds of kilometers between services (gas, water, cell coverage, etc.) and it takes multiple days to complete. But for intrepid road trippers, it’s a total thrill. To help travelers considering the journey across the Big Land, and to capture the unforgettable moments from our time in Labrador, we made this video… we hope it inspires you to take this epic road trip either on your way to (or from) Newfoundland!

We’ve road-tripped 11 of Canada’s 13 provinces and territories. Not only is Newfoundland and Labrador unique for the country, but it is special for its global influences (Basque, Irish, French, English, Indigenous, and more) paired with a strong local identity. Newfoundlanders and Labradorians have incredible pride in their far-flung land, heartfelt music, and blended culture, but the best part is that they aren’t territorial when it comes to sharing it. As you can see from the stories above, it was the people as much as the beauty of this place that wooed us. We will be back to Newfoundland and Labrador… it’s where we left a piece of our heart.

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Thank you to Mike & Anne Howard for this inspiring article. For more of their Canadian and global adventures, check out their website www.HoneyTrek.com and other social media channels @HoneyTrek.